So, you’re heading to Morocco (excellent choice, by the way) and dreaming of your own Lawrence of Arabia moment — riding a camel into the golden desert sunset. But now comes the big question: should you venture to Erg Chebbi or Erg Chigaga?
Chebbi is the more famous of the two, with towering dunes and easier access. Chigaga, on the other hand, is wilder, more remote, and just as photogenic. It’s a tough call — but don’t worry. I’ve been to both, and I’m here to help you decide.
While I do have a personal favorite, the best choice really depends on what kind of adventure you’re looking for. Either way, one thing’s for sure: you’ll probably never want to ride a camel again.
So… Chebbi or Chigaga?
Erg Chebbi
Erg Chebbi is the better-known dune field, located near Merzouga. It’s about an 8-hour drive from both Fes and Ouarzazate. This region attracts more visitors, thanks to its accessibility and massive dunes. The desert camps (bivouacs) here are more established, making it a convenient option for first-time travelers.
Erg Chigaga
Chigaga lies farther south, beyond M’Hamid, and only began welcoming tourists in the 1990s due to its proximity to the Algerian border. It’s around a 9-hour drive from Marrakech. A great place to break the journey is Ait Ben Haddou, or my personal favorite — Kasbah Ellouze in Tamdaght. The drive through the Draa Valley is an adventure in itself, with stunning scenery that sets the tone for what’s to come.
Let’s Compare: Chebbi vs. Chigaga
1. Dune Height
Chebbi wins here. Its dunes can reach up to 160 meters, offering spectacular panoramic views of the Sahara. Chigaga’s dunes max out at around 120 meters. However, don’t underestimate how exhausting it is to climb sand dunes — most people only make it halfway up in Chebbi. So in reality, you may end up enjoying similar views in both places.
Winner: Chebbi
2. Sense of Vastness
Chigaga offers a more expansive and untouched landscape. Just getting there involves a 60 km off-road journey from M’Hamid across rocky desert (hamada) before you even see the sand. The shifting terrain creates a sense of anticipation, and once you arrive, the feeling of isolation is unforgettable.
Plus, you can do a full off-road loop from M’Hamid to Foum Zguid via the dried-up Lake Iriki — part of the original Paris-Dakar Rally route. It’s rugged, wild, and truly immersive.
Winner: Chigaga
3. Accessibility
Chebbi is far easier to reach — drive to Merzouga, hop on a camel, and off you go. The downside? It’s also more crowded and commercial. Chigaga requires a proper 4×4 and an experienced driver for the final stretch. It’s less convenient, but that’s exactly what makes it feel like a real expedition.
For simplicity’s sake, though…
Winner: Chebbi
4. Remoteness
If you crave solitude, Chigaga is your spot. Despite being able to drive all the way to camp, it still feels wild and remote. Chebbi, while beautiful, is more built-up. Camps are close together, and you’ll hear drums and voices from nearby groups as you approach.
Winner: Chigaga
5. Desert Camp Experience (Bivouac)
Let’s focus on the more basic, authentic camps — no luxury tents with en-suites here.
In Chigaga, we stayed in a tiny camp where we were the only guests. Surrounded by dunes, it felt completely isolated. The camp hosts lived there for months at a time, and though we didn’t speak the same language, we spent a memorable evening chatting, drinking tea, and riding camels.
Chebbi’s camps are larger and more social — great if you want music, dancing, and company. But for us, the peace and intimacy of Chigaga made for a more magical experience. The loud drumbeats from neighboring camps in Chebbi felt a bit forced, and the lack of toilets didn’t exactly add to the charm.
Winner: Chigaga
6. Sunrise
A tie. We were lucky to witness unforgettable sunrises in both places. The golden light on the dunes is something you’ll never forget, whether you’re in Chebbi or Chigaga.
Winner: Both
Final Verdict: Chebbi or Chigaga?
While Chebbi scores higher on dune height and ease of access, Chigaga wins on remoteness, scale, and authenticity.
Overall Winner: Erg Chigaga
(Score: Chebbi 2 – 3 Chigaga)
So, have I convinced you?
If you’re after comfort, ease, and a lively campfire vibe, Chebbi might be your place. But if you’re longing for raw wilderness, solitude, and an off-the-beaten-path experience, Chigaga is the real deal.
Whichever you choose, one thing’s certain — you won’t leave disappointed.
